Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay: The First Ascent of Everest

[00:00:01] Picture this, on May 29th, 1953, before this moment, no man had ever stood at the top of Mount Everest, as it was thought maybe to be an impossible test, as it was not made for humans. But Edmund Hillary was able to change that. A former beekeeper from New Zealand, along with his team, conquered the tallest peak in the world in a journey that would lead to one of the most unique tourist destinations and one of the most dangerous places on Earth.

[00:00:30] We're going to dive into this crazy story about the very first summit of Mount Everest, today on Daily Sports History. Let's go! Welcome to Daily Sports History. I'm Ethan Reese, your guide, as you daily learn more about sports history, increasing your sports knowledge.

[00:00:57] So in the 1920s, New Zealand was a rolling hills with sheep farms and small towns. In America, we best know New Zealand for being home to the Lord of the Rings franchise. And in 1919, Edmund Percival Hillary was born to a beekeeper. And his father was a beekeeper and a World War I veteran. And he was a shy kid, but grew up tall, which made him stand out and made him even more shy.

[00:01:23] But he grew to love books about adventure and exploration, especially tales about polar exploration and mountain climbing. And at the age of 16, his school took a trip and Hillary experienced snow and altitude for the very first time. And he said it was the most exciting experience of his life. But Hillary had a beekeeping business to maintain, as his family had the business for years.

[00:01:51] And it was hard, physical, demanding work, especially during the summer. And Ed actually credits being a beekeeping for his stamina and ability to endure hardship for his later quest. In 1939, at the age of 20, he would submit Mount Olivier of the Southern Alps, which was a modest peak, but would really ignite his lifelong passion for mountaineering.

[00:02:16] His climbing continued as he joined a tramping club of seasoned climbers who helped him develop techniques and skills of the rugged New Zealand terrain. And over the next decade, Hillary would tackle increasingly more challenging climbs, including Mount Cook in New Zealand's highest peak at over 12,000 feet.

[00:02:38] Then came World War II, and Hillary actually enlisted in the Royal New Zealand Army Air Force and became a navigator in the Pacific. The war really tested his resolve and exposed him to dangers and depravity of war. And after returning from the conflict, he was determined to throw himself back into climbing and do what he loved because he saw how quickly life could be taken away. And by the 1940s, Hillary was establishing himself as the top climber in New Zealand.

[00:03:08] But he always dreamed of the Himalayas and the mythical peak of Mount Everest. He actually went to the Himalayas in 1951, joined a British expedition led by Eric Shipton, exploring possible routes up Mount Everest south. Because at this time there was two peaks, the south side, which is the Nepal side, and the other side was just the Chinese side. But the Chinese side was ruled by China, and you could not attempt that side. So it was only open to Chinese travelers.

[00:03:38] But the Nepal side was open to everybody. So in 1952, he attempted to climb Cho'oi, which was 26,864 feet in the air, gaining crucial high-altitude experience. And his skill and work ethic actually impressed British climbers, and he would join a 1953 British Everest exposition. By this time, he was a seasoned climber, and he was ready for whatever challenge came his way.

[00:04:07] So during this exposition, this was the ninth attempt to conquer the world's tallest peak. And it was a joint coalition called the Joint Himalaya Committee, led by Colonel John Hunt, a British Army officer with a team of over 400 people, including over 350 prodders and 20 Sherpa guides and about 10 core climbers. All hauling about 10,000 pounds of equipment through the Himalayas.

[00:04:35] And led by legendary Sherpa, Tanzi Norgate, who was famous for his high-altitude experience, and he is recorded to have ascended on Everest multiple times. So the plan was to establish a chain of camps up the mountain. That way they could ferry supplies and oxygen throughout multiple stages and make it a lot easier.

[00:04:56] The first attempt happened on May 26, 1953, when Tom Boyden and Charles Evans reached the South Summit, which was 28,700 feet, just 300 feet from the true summit of Mount Everest. But they had a turn back due to exhaustion and oxygen problems, which left both men heartbroken.

[00:05:20] The second attempt happened on May 29, 1953, when Hillary and Tang Zing, the Sherpa, were selected as the next team. And they just happened to be teamed up together due to just luck. They left the ninth camp on Mount Everest. Now Hillary awoke to his boots being frozen solid outside his tent that day. And he had spent two hours thawing them over the stove before they could even begin.

[00:05:46] The delay took them and they could not attempt to leave till 630, carrying 30 pounds in each pack, using bottled oxygen as they set out for the summit. Now navigating these treacherous south ridge on knife-edge ridges and sheer drops on either side, the climb was steep and icy. And there was a 40 foot rock face that would later be named Hillary step, where Hillary found a narrow crack between the rock and the snow that you could wrinkle up.

[00:06:15] And they would name it after him, after his ascent. After hours of attempting this, they finally saw the ridge drop away and the snow dome ahead on the summit of Mount Everest. And at 1130, they made it to the very top, 29,035 feet, the highest point in the world. And they spent a total of 15 minutes. And Hillary took a photo of Tanzing and his eyesat, showing how much help that the Sherpas were for them.

[00:06:44] And Tanzing later wrote that Hillary just declined to have his picture taken. And Tanzing left some chocolates that the Buddhists had offered. And Hillary left a small cross given to him by John Hunt. They took photos and looking down the mountain, they proved that they had reached the top. And the unity of their achievement, they emphasized. Tanzing later stated Hillary was the first to step on the summit, but stressed their teamwork is what mattered most.

[00:07:10] On the way down, the snow drift covered their tracks, making it very difficult to come back. And the first person they met when they got back was George Lowe. And he famously said, well, George, we knocked off the bastard. The team kept the news secret until they reached a lower camp, allowing the moment to be captured on film of the news reaching at the perfect time. Their achievement would be announced to Britain on June 2nd, coinciding with Queen Elizabeth's second coordination, amplifying the impact.

[00:07:39] And Hillary would be knighted and Hunt would receive knighthood. And Tanzing was awarded the George Medal and the Star of Nepal. But this wasn't it for Hillary. He was now world famous, but he didn't want to just stop. He led expeditions to the Himalayas, climbing 10 more peaks over 20,000 feet in the years following Mount Everest.

[00:08:00] And in 1958, he led the New Zealand section of the Commonwealth Trans-Arctic Exposition to become the first to reach the South Pole overland by motor vehicle since Amson and Scott. And he later reached the North Pole, becoming the first person to stand on both poles and atop Mount Everest, a unique three pole achievement.

[00:08:25] Now, the most profound thing that changed in Hillary's life was his commitment to the Sherpa people of Nepal. A lot of times we hear about the guy that climbed Everest, but we forget about how well the Sherpas of Nepal made it even possible. And in 1960, the Himalaya Trust, aiming to repay the kindness and support he received from the Sherpas.

[00:08:46] And the Trust helped build schools, hospitals, bridges, and airfields for the remote Himalaya region, transforming the life of countless Nepalese. And Hillary personally oversaw many of these projects. Over his life, Hillary received numerous honors, including an honorary citizenship from Nepal.

[00:09:05] In 2003, on the 50th anniversary of the Mount Everest climb, he served as the New Zealand High Commissioner to India, Nepal, and Bangladesh in the 1980s, deepening his ties to the region until his death. In 2008, Hillary remained entirely an advocate for the Nepal people and preserving the legacy of the summit of Mount Everest.

[00:09:29] Now, Hillary may have done this in 1953, and it was a huge moment, but it took many people trying before him. Often when you're the first, somebody tried before you and somebody tried before them. And it's the same with Mount Everest. He wasn't the first to try. Many have lost their lives trying. It's estimated over 340 people have died while trying to climb Mount Everest. And that's only an estimate. There could have been even more years and years ago. It took many trial and error and technology.

[00:10:00] Without oxygen, many think that there's no way anyone could have made it to the top. And if we didn't have the technology to have bottled oxygen, there's probably no way any person could have made it. Except for maybe the Nepalese people that live in the area and have adjusted to that climate. And it's possible that many Nepalese and Sherpa had done it previously and never got recognition.

[00:10:22] But at least Hillary put them ahead of him and honored what they did because it's often the unsung heroes that help us achieve greatness. I want to thank you for listening to today's Daily Sports History. If you like this, please make sure you like and subscribe so you do not miss another episode. And we will see you again on the next episode.